Pitcairn Islands Travel Guide

I’ve just uploaded my Travel Guide to the Pitcairn Islands which includes most of the Pitcairn Islands chapter from the 8th edition of Moon Handbooks South Pacific. This is the third chapter from my book to go online, after Tokelau and Niue. We’re currently formating a fourth chapter and hope to have it online soon. My Travel Guide to the Pitcairn Islands outlines the geography, history, economy, and population of Pitcairn. There’s practical information on accommodations, money, visas, and getting there. You’ll find a link under Pitcairn Tours to the regular boat tours from Mangareva, French Polynesia. Detailed maps of Pitcairn, Oeno, and Henderson are provided, and I’ve thrown in a map and brief description of Norfolk Island between Australia and New Zealand where many Pitcairn descendants presently live. As always, I invite you to compare my Pitcairns Islands guide to the scanty Introducing Pitcairn Island site provided by Lonely Planet. Hopefully the competition will inspire the folks at LP to do a better job.

Suva Tourist Office Closes

Regular visitors to Fiji will be saddened to hear that the landmark Suva office of the Fiji Visitors Bureau, now known as Tourism Fiji, has closed. The defunct FVB Suva office was housed in the historic customs house dating from 1912 and it’s still not clear what the future holds for the building. The location at the head of Victoria Parade across the street from Suva’s General Post Office made it a convenient place for visitors to pick up brochures and ask questions. Now they’ll be dependent on hotel brochure racks for such supplies.

Tourism Fiji seems to be trying to avoid you. The FVB information office at Nadi International Airport closed a few years ago and the only public Tourism Fiji office still extant is upstairs in Colonial Plaza between downtown Nadi and the airport. Few tourists pass that way and the office is hard to find so the staff inside aren't likely to be called upon to answer questions very often. Marketing Fiji to the tourist trade is their primary mission and you should request their brochures from one of their overseas offices before leaving home.

Be aware that virtually all of the well marked “tourist information offices” you see around Nadi are commercial travel agencies which provide biased information about their own products. They'll claim not to know about any hotels which aren't paying them a commission. For the full picture bring a copy of Moon Fiji to the islands with you as the guides aren't usually sold there.

Solomon Islands Exporting Dolphins

Solomon Islands is back in the dolphin exporting business with 11 more bottlenose dolphins being sent to the Philippines where they’ll be trained to perform at a theme park in Singapore. This is on top of the seven other dolphins sent overseas in recent months. The Ministries of Fisheries and Conservation in Honiara allows up to 100 dolphins a year to be exported by five license holders. No research is carried out to judge how these exports will affect wild dolphin populations in the Solomon Islands and the whole whole affair is just another example of how the Solomon Islands Government allows foreigners to rip off the country’s natural resources irregardless of the impact. The country’s rainforests are routinely raped by foreign loggers with the active cooperation of government officials who aren’t above pocketing large bribes. In 2006 Solomon Islands voted against the establishment of a South Pacific Whale Sanctuary and in support of Japanese whaling at a meeting of the International Whaling Commission. It’s too bad the Solomon Islands Government doesn’t seem to care about animal welfare or their own environment.

Seasons Greetings 2008

Merry Christmas Everyone!

Insider’s Guide to Fiji

I’ve written an Insider’s Guide to Fiji for the leading Australian website Ninemsn.com.au. This free online guide includes suggested one- and two-week itineraries, specific info on scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing, ocean kayaking, whitewater rafting, and hiking, reviews of 10 exceptional places to stay, tips on where to eat, recommendations of special places “near the beaten track”, and “where not to go”. A unique feature of Ninemsn.com.au is that they invite comments from website users on almost everything. So go ahead and submit any feedback you may have!

In preparing the Fiji Insider’s Guide for Ninemsn.com.au I was required to adhere to a rigid format, which was actually helpful as it inspired me to cover areas I might otherwise have neglected. Other authors have created Insider’s Guides to 30 countries and 17 Australian destinations, making Ninemsn Travel an invaluable resource for world travelers. Do have a look.

Solomon Airlines Jacks Up Fares

Beginning on January 5, 2009, it will cost 19 percent more to use the domestic services of Solomon Airlines. In a way, this is good as the old fares were so low that it was often difficult to get a reservation. Now that many local users have been priced out of the market, it will be easier for visitors to get bookings on flights from Honiara to Munda, Gizo, and several dozen other islands. And Solomon Airlines does need the additional revenue to pay for its new twin-engined Dash8 aircraft used on domestic flights. Internationally, Solomon Airlines is at pains to explain that they are a full service carrier, not a no frills outfit like competitor Pacific Blue which charges extra for inflight drinks, meals, and movies en route.

Air Tahiti Nui Cuts Back

Declining passenger loads and rising financial losses are forcing Air Tahiti Nui to cut back on services to Australia and North America. The airline’s convenient nonstop service from Sydney to Papeete will be discontinued next year, although the three weekly Sydney-Papeete flights which stop at Auckland en route will continue as before. In 2009 Air Tahiti Nui’s nonstop New York to Papeete flights will operate from June to October only. Other months, New Yorkers will have to fly to Los Angeles on another carrier to pick up a service to Papeete.

Niue Travel Guide Online

I’ve just posted the Niue chapter from Moon Handbooks South Pacific online. The 22-page site includes the original maps of Niue and Alofi from the guidebook, plus many photos and line drawings. I’ve updated the 2004 text from the printed book a bit, and if you see anything else that still needs correcting, just let me know. I believe my online guide to Niue is a lot easier to navigate and more informative than the Lonely Planet Niue Guide and I invite you to compare. Niue is the second of the 15 chapters in Moon Handbooks South Pacific to go online. Tokelau was the first and I hope to have a third up and running by the end of the month.

Inter Island Air Takes Off

The American Samoan carrier Inter Island Air in the only airline offering regular service from Tutuila to Ofuand Tau in the Manu’a Islands. They also have an international flight to Apia, Samoa. The big news is that in June or July of 2009 Inter Island Airways will begin flying to Vava'u and Nukualofa in the Kingdom of Tonga and to Alofi, Niue. The expansion to Tonga and Niue involves the acquisition of a Dornier 328 30-seater Turbo Prop, currently due for delivery at Pago Pago in late March 2009. Inter Island Air plans to offer additional flights to the Cook Islands and Fiji upon receipt of their second Dornier 328 later in 2009.

With this, American Samoa may soon become one of the travel hubs of the South Pacific, as Apia was until 2005 when Polynesian Blue gobbled up many of Polynesian Airlines’ old routes. All of this must certainly be music to the ears of the tourism people on Tutuila, and there’s no denying that American Samoa is currently one of the best kept secrets in the Pacific islands. The scenery there is only equaled in the Society Islands and the hiking is about the best.

Interestingly, Alex Jennings, whose family owns the Swains Island, is an Inter Island Airways employee. He’s is also the legislator representing Swains in American Samoa’s fono or parliament. In March 2009, Swains Island will finally be connected to the world by broadband, and management at Inter Island Airways is working with Alex and the Government of American Samoa to construct a small airstrip on Swains. The development is being closely monitored to ensure a limited impact on the environment. One of the implications of this will be that it could open up a gateway to Swains and even the Tokelau Islands for travelers. Depending on how the airline handles fuel on the island (by ferry boat), Swains is a potential jumping off point to some of the most remote corners of the Pacific.

Visited Countries of the World

The wiki website World66 allows users to create a map of the countries they have visited. My map is above, showing the 185 countries I’ve visited according to their list. However, by my count I’ve been to 196 countries and territories, including these places missing from the World66 list: St Pierre et Miquelon, Zanzibar, Canary Islands, Isle of Man, Northern Ireland, North Cyprus, Hong Kong, Macau, Easter Island, Tokelau, and Wallis et Futuna. Northeast Africa is one of the biggest holes in my map and I’ve booked a trip to Ethiopia for mid-January.

Author Number 9,000

I’ve been named Author Number 9,000 in the Winter 2008-2009 issue of BC BookWorld. The magazine’s massive online Author Bank of B.C. literature now includes information on over 9,000 British Columbia writers, with biographies, bibliographies, and essays. It’s well worth perusing if you’d care to learn more about writers living in British Columbia, Canada.

Guide to the Tokelau Islands

I’ve just uploaded an online Guide to the Tokelau Islands with the full Tokelau chapter from Moon Handbooks South Pacific. History, government, economy, and the people are covered in the Introduction, then there are notes on places to stay, food, getting there, and getting around in Travel Facts. Each of the three atolls, Fakaofo, Nukunonu, and Atafu, has an individual page with a detailed island map. I believe my Tokelau site is more complete and easier to navigate than the one offered by Lonely Planet which is cluttered with blinking display ads and provides very little information on each page. Compare the two for yourself.

Apia Samoa Restaurants

Apia, the capital of Samoa on the island of Upolu, has a large selection of places to eat. At the budget end, Skippy's (closed Sunday), in the arcade beside the Westpac Bank on Beach Road, has fish, chicken, or sausage with chips for S$6. SNPF Food Court (closed Sunday), at the back of a passage just west of Molesi Supermarket on Beach Road, has six lunch counters selling inexpensive dishes (including breakfast).

Many of Apia's cheapest eateries are near the corner of Vaea and Convent streets, most of them open only until 1600 weekdays and 1300 Saturday. Here you'll find restaurants which dish out huge lunches to huge Samoans, but you'll need a strong stomach to join them. For example, Pinati's has no sign outside and no menu inside, but the large crowd of locals tells you it's something good. There are only a few choices, including curry, chop suey, fish, and chicken, all around S$3.50 a big plate. A step up is Gourmet Seafood and Grill (Monday to Saturday 0700-2200) on Togafu’afu’a Street with lunch specials, sashimi, fried fish, and steaks. While the food certainly isn't "gourmet" it’s substantial, the outdoor thatched roof setting is pleasant, and prices are fair. You must pay the cashier first and get a number. More Samoan-style fast food is scooped out at Cam's Food Bar, a block and a half behind the Chief Post Office. Cam's is great for lunch, passable at breakfast, but overpriced at dinner. The oka (raw fish) is a bargain at S$3.50. A cold coconut is S$1.50.

Substantial Chinese meals are served at the Treasure Garden Restaurant (weekdays 1100-1400 and 1700-2200, Saturday 1700-2200) on Fugalei Street near the vegetable market. Most meals cost S$13-15, seafoods S$28-38. Although the food is good, the air conditioning may give you a chill. On Sunday (0900-1200) all you can get is takeaways from the counter inside (always a good option if you've rented a car and want to carry a cheap dinner back to your hotel).

Some of Apia's finest dining is available at Sails Restaurant and Bar (Monday to Saturday 0715-1500/1830-2300, Sunday 1700-2300), above Crabbers Bar on Beach Road. Their airy terrace provides pleasing harbor views to complement the fancy seafood, steaks, pastas, and sashimi, just count on paying at least S$25/40 pp for lunch/dinner here. Proprietors Ian and Livia Black managed top hotels in Tahiti and Fiji before settling in Apia. Thanks to Samoa's location next to the international date line, Sails can claim to be the last restaurant in the world to close every day. The wooden restaurant building itself was built by trader Harry Moors, and Robert Louis Stevenson himself stayed here before Vailima was built.

The Blue Lagoon Bar and Grill, above Bad Billy’s near Sails, offers a view similar to that of Sails for half the price (main dishes S$13 to S$25). The kitchen is open Monday to Saturday 1100-1400/1800-2200. The Rainforest Restaurant (tel. 25-736; weekdays 0900-1500 and 1800-2200), nearby on Beach Road, really lives up to its name, with the wood shavings on the floor and potted plants. Rainforest usually opens weekdays only, serving breakfast and lunch 0900-1500, dinner from 1800 until late.

Bistro Tatau (closed Sunday) opposite the Flea Market is an upscale restaurant with white linen table clothes which serves mains (S$46-60) like barramundi pie and twice cooked duck after 1830.

Giordano's Pizzeria (Tuesday-Saturday 1500-2200, Sunday 1700-2100), near the Hotel Insel Fehmarn on the road connecting the National Hospital to the Cross Island Rd., has the best pizza in town and the candlelit courtyard dining area is agreeable. Italiano Pizza Bar on Beach Road between Rainforest and Crabbers has pizza for S$14-36, pastas S$18, and sashimi S$15.

For lighter fare try the Cappuccino Vineyard (Monday to Saturday 0700-2200), on Beach Road in the passage beside the National Bank of Samoa. It’s a trendy cafe with specialty coffee, pastries, and upscale appetizers like sashimi, oysters, wings, and American-style hamburgers. It’s owned by Sails Restaurant and the recorded music is good. Le Moana Cafe (weekdays 0730-2130, Saturday 0730-1400 and 1830-2130), in the Lotemau Center off Convent St. behind Air New Zealand, prepares good medium-priced meals and is also nice for a coffee. Breakfast runs S$9-22. Weekdays Nettie’s Minimart serves a good breakfast of coffee and pastries on their terrace overlooking the harbor near the corner of Beach Road and Matautu Street.

Which Country is the Best?

I agree with these comments which I recently received from a reader: “If one is interested in culture and authentic village life...Samoa is the best! If one wants that, plus relaxation and/or activities, Fiji is best. If one wants to lie on the beach then Fiji or, if he has money, French Polynesia could be recommended. If one wants adventure off the beaten track then the Solomons is the place. If one wants a good value comfortable holiday, then Cook Islands is another option after Fiji. If one wants to travel to another planet, then Easter Island is that planet! A comparison of costs in the various countries is also useful. I met a young New Zealand girl who went to Tonga because the airfare was cheaper than going to Fiji…only to discover that what she saved on air travel was more than offset by what she was paying for accommodation. Fiji ought to be recommended as the first destination for everybody with Samoa as the next choice.”

Lapita Voyage to Tikopia

From November, 2008, to April, 2009, a major expedition called Lapita Voyage will follow the migration route of the ancient Polynesians. The expedition’s two catamarans will sail 6,000 kilometers east from the Philippine island of Panglao to Tikopia in the Solomon Islands. Modern navigational aids will not be used. Instead, traditional Polynesian navegational methods of following the sun, stars, winds, waves and birds will be followed throughout. This project has been initiated by James Wharram and Hanneke Boon, the catamaran designers, and Klaus Hympendahl, a German writer on maritime subjects. At the end of the six-month journey, the catamarans will be presented to the people of Anuta and Tikopia. The group’s website contains a great deal of information on ancient Polynesian migration techniques.

Hideaway Holidays, Sydney, Australia

Hideaway Holidays (established in 1977) is a tour wholesaler based in Sydney, Australia. Many travel companies sell various kinds of travel, but not Hideaway Holidays. They specialise in the Pacific Islands to give you the best range of holiday options in the Pacific region at specially negotiated prices. Destinations include the Melanesian islands of New Caledonia, Vanuatu, and the Solomon Islands. Then there are the Polynesian islands of Tahiti, Cook Islands, Samoa, Niue, Fiji, and Tonga. In the central and north Pacific, Hideaway Holidays offers Micronesia (Chuuk, Guam, Saipan, Palau, Pohnpei, Kosrae, Kwajaelin), Kiribati (Tarawa and Christmas Island), and of course Hawaii. Cruising and yachting packages are also offered in many areas of the Pacific.

Over the years, Hideaway Holidays has established contracts with numerous hotels, tour operators, and airlines, including Air New Zealand, Qantas, Virgin Blue, Aircalin, Solomon Airlines, Air Vanuatu, Continental Micronesia, and Air Tahiti Nui. Many of their contacts are priced in Australian dollars which means you get the benefit of the low Australian dollar. This allows you to save money by purchasing your entire package through Hideaway Holidays including your airline tickets, accommodation, and anything else that is required. In most cases your complete package will cost you less than if you purchased the airfares and accommodation separately. Their specialties include dream weddings or romantic honeymoons in Paradise! Hideaway does everything from co-ordination to assisting with paperwork, the reception, etc.

In today's busy world Hideaway Holidays understands that today's traveler is looking for information quickly, as well as a good value. Hideaway’s wholesale package rates will save you time and money. You can sit back and relax, knowing that they can handle everything for you. Visit Hideaway Holidays website for some of the latest holiday and travel deals to the South Pacific. Bookings may be made directly with Hideaway Holidays.

2009 Pitcairn Island Tours

Between January and March, 2009, the Research Vessel Bounty Bay will make five visits to Pitcairn Island via Mangareva Island in French Polynesia. Since there’s no airport on Pitcairn, this is about the only way to get there. Cruise ships sometimes advertise Pitcairn Island visits, but at best their passengers get only a couple of hours on Pitcairn, and if the weather is at all bad, they can’t land at all. In contrast, those booking passage on the MV Bounty Bay through Pacific Expeditions Ltd get a week or more ashore. A sidetrip to Henderson Island from Pitcairn is included in the tour. Prices range from US$2,900 to US$3,600 depending on the length of the cruise, and room and board with a local family on Pitcairn is US$70 extra per person per night. The flight from Tahiti to Mangareva where one boards the ship also costs extra. The RV Bounty Bay carries only 12 passengers and one of the five departures is already fully booked. This is something for the person who thinks they’ve seen and done everything.

Lonely Planet Seeking Authors

Guidebook publisher Lonely Planet is currently seeking people interested in updating their guidebooks for a fee. This list of destinations up for grabs includes seven Canadian provinces and 15 US cities or states. They’re also looking for Pacific-based writers for their island titles. Unlike the previous Lonely Planet policy of “parachuting” experienced researchers into new areas, LP now seems to prefer stringers based in the areas themselves. This has the obvious advantage of local knowledge but members of a community are unlikely to want to step on many toes. So future Lonely Planet guides will probably be less critical. Newbie writers with no experience need not apply as “two examples of your published writing work (preferably travel-related), including details on where and when they were published” are required.

Lonely Planet’s job offer page is all about what they want and doesn’t cover what they’ll be giving successful applicants. Anyone considering updating for Lonely Planet should be aware that the publisher will own all rights to their work, including moral rights. The only compensation will be a flat one-time fee. Free travel insurance is usually thrown in (probably to protect the publisher from liability as much as the writer from actual harm). The good old days when LP writers retained their copyrights and earned royalties are gone for good.

Still, if you've got the time and enthusiasm, doing one or two books for LP can be educational. You'll be badgered by arrogant editors who have no personal knowledge of your area, will have to adhere to strict deadlines, won't be allowed to solicit freebies (although many LP authors do anyway), and will have to pay your own travel expenses. Ex-Lonely Planet author Wayne Bernhardson comments, “Nothing could persuade me to return to LP, even if they wanted me (not bloody likely). Working with them is, as Tim Cahill so famously put it, like being pecked to death by ducks.”

Avalon Travel also accepts applications from potential authors and they want five relevant clips to demonstrate your travel writing prowess before they’ll even look at your application. The many other requirements are clearly spelled out on their Acquisitions page. In the short term, you’ll make more money working with Lonely Planet, although you’ll probably survive longer with Avalon if you do a good job and toe the line. At Lonely Planet, you’ll be completely at the mercy of the publisher whereas Avalon Travel still respects author’s rights and usually allows them to retain the copyright to their own work. Avalon also pays royalties – although they’re not high – and usually gives a small advance to help cover writer’s initial costs.

Bertie’s B&B Apia Samoa

Some of Apia’s best budget accommodation is at Bertie's Bed and Breakfast out at Vaitele Fou, about eight kilometers west of town. You can get there by local bus from the market for two tala. Bertie's is run by English expat Mark Birtwistle and his Samoan wife, Mariana Birtwistle. The rooms are large with their own en suite, air conditioning, and comfortable beds. The 65 tala (US$23) single or 110 tala (US$39) double includes a filling breakfast of fruits, eggs and toast, plus tea or coffee. There’s a communal kitchen should you wish to prepare your own meals. Bertie's does pick ups and drop offs at the airport with discounted prices for Bertie's guests. Mark also runs Bertie's Island Tours which does a complete trip around the island for 145 tala (US$51) including admission fees and lunch. Bertie's is helpful, friendly, and you really become part of the family.

Fiji Me with Moon Fiji

Moon Fiji explores the 322-island Fiji Archipelago that lies at the crossroads of the South Pacific. The handbook covers the islands of Viti Levu, Vanua Levu, Taveuni, Ovalau, and Kadavu, plus the Mamanuca, Yasawa, Lomaiviti, and Lau groups. Veteran travel writer David Stanley offers recommendations on what to take, where to go, and what to do, and outlines air routes, tour services, and interisland travel. This information-packed handbook provides more valuable insight than any other guide to Fiji.

Mon Fiji was the first—and is still the best—detailed, reliable source of information on travel around this exciting archipelago. This comprehensive travel guide provides frank reviews of lodgings, from luxury resorts to beachfront bures. Transportation options include getting around by foot, air, bicycle, ship, bus, car, and taxi, and there are also tips on discovering the finest local cuisine. You’ll find vivid descriptions of the islands’ dazzling beaches, rainforests, and reefs, plus tips for enjoying outdoor activities like diving, surfing, sailing, kayaking, and hiking.

Budget travel information. David Stanley demonstrates how easy it is to do it all without renting an expensive car or joining a restrictive tour.
The Fijians. A thought-provoking introduction to the people of Fiji, famed for their warmth, generosity, and fascinating array of traditional customs.
Relevance. Details of Fiji’s turbulent history, including frank coverage of the four coups.
Depth. All of Fiji is explored in this guide, not just the hot spots.
Precision. Moon Fiji quotes exact prices for accommodations, food, tour, and transportation to allow you to prepare a realistic travel budget.
Experience. The depth of coverage that comes from eight consecutive editions.
Maps. Sixty-seven clearly-labeled maps of islands, towns, and sightseeing highlights.
Electronic contacts. Hundreds of websites and email addresses embedded in the listings.
References: The comprehensive bibliography, glossary, and index making looking up information a breeze.